Richard Mayson: Mid-deep mahogany; thin olive-green rim. Lifted, a touch of vinagrinho, and slightly baked. Pungent and baked on the palate, with a tang of tawny marmalade on the finish. 15.5

Simon Field: A gentle volatility elegantly lifts the malty, caramelized notes from the glass. On the palate, the varnish is still there, forgiven in a sea of complexity, with salt and spice vying for attention with dried fruit, walnuts, and white chocolate. Very complete. 17

Margaret Rand: Nice powdery, aged nose. On the palate there are notes of coffee and chocolate, complex and rich, and it’s beautifully transparent: You can see right through the layers of flavor. Very long, big finish. 17