Simon Field: Amber to mahogany; luminous rim. Attractive nose of bonfires, figs, and cloves. Palate broad, old-fashioned, and complete. Leather, sous bois, and walnuts, the volatility taken as read; reassuringly decadent. To enjoy while perusing the eternal verities after a lengthy dinner somewhere along Pall Mall. 17

Richard Mayson: Mid-mahogany with an olive-green rim. High-toned aromas, quite pungent, rich, toasted, slightly singed fruit. Very full and unctuous on the palate, almost the essence of Tawny, but just offset by sufficient freshness and finesse. Slightly burnt on the finish. 14

Margaret Rand: Lovely nose, aged and perfumed; palate pungent, sweet, and powerful. Linear and pungent; very elegant. 16