Simon Field: Amber with green tints; a nose with unusual pencil-shaving and almost sappy notes; the volatility is quite pervasive, and the wine, overall, is relatively unresolved. 14

Richard Mayson: Mid-mahogany, with a thin olive-green rim. Fully evolved fig, date, and sultana character, still quite rich with a fine balance of depth and freshness. A lovely old wine. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Rich, coffee palate and a very long finish. Like coffee liqueur, only nicer. Immensely rich and pungent; a serious wine with great complexity and subtlety, and a huge finish. 18