Jesús Barquín: Very serious and elegant nose, and impressive mouthfeel—with massive, earthy tannins where one can almost chew Douro grape skins. The finish is equally dramatic, confirming the impression that this wine—more than any other one in this tasting—has been conceived not for our immediate pleasure but for that of our grandchildren. For my rating, however, I’d rather not play fortune-telling games and prioritize the wine’s current performance, which is excellent anyway. 17

Richard Mayson: Deep, opaque; closed, tight-knit, quite dense with underlying depth and intensity; good, solid, foursquare meaty wine, rich and well structured, with powerful tannins rising in the mouth. Finishes with a flourish—a peacock’s-tail finish. Makes up in power for what it lacks in elegance. Impressive long-distance wine. 17.5

Charles Metcalfe:Dark, rich, rather spirity, with a definite hint of oak on the nose. Big, rich, tannic, with high acidity and good intensity. A more old-fashioned style than some, with big tannins and fruit that will require a fair bit of bottle age to soften. 15