Jesús Barquín:Mahogany brown with amber rim. On the nose, orange peel, hint of pepper, raisins, quite spicy on the sweet side. Flavors are coherent, with a touch of bitterness linked to concentration and a noble nutty and spicy character. 95

Andrew Jefford:Mid-russet/walnut, with orange glints. Very complete and orchestral aromas, a great battlefield mist of citrus peels; of dark, milk, and white chocolate; of dried apricots and dates; and moist licorice curls. Smooth, graceful, and gracious on the palate, with invasive flavors in which you notice sweetness first of all, and then an architectural acidity, searching, resonant, and long. (Tawny of this age can begin to acquire the balance of Vintage Madeira.) This is a very successful 40 Year Old, since not only is it very spectacular in its own right, but it has also retained the completeness necessary to convince as a very old Tawny Port—that style implying a refined grace and burnished sumptuousness which should be easy to sip at all times. A masterful rendition. 97

Richard Mayson:Deep red-mahogany; rather rustic on the nose, lifted, high-toned, with more than a touch of Douro bake; big, bold, and intensely sweet, with honey-cake richness on the finish, but again I find this honeyed sweetness rather top-heavy on the finish. 85