Jesús Barquín:Mahogany brown with amber rim. Quite outstanding on the nose, with some tar, a touch of rancio, spicy and candied-fruit aromas. Similar on the palate, concentrated and therefore bitter, balanced by moderate sweetness, black chocolate (80 percent cocoa). Outstandingly impressive, a wine to sip more than to drink. 96

Andrew Jefford:Deep orange russet, with scents of marmalade and old wooden casks; just a touch spirity now. Concentrated and long, with all of the bittersweet resonance of age, but a little bit clumsy compared to the best of its peers and without quite the same levels of aromatic nuance. Very fine and very venerable nonetheless, and a small glass of this would be a treat at any time. 90

Richard Mayson:Mid-deep amber-tawny all the way through; open, lifted balsamic aromas, this more than hints at vinagrinho and is just too rustic on the nose for my liking; rich demerara and crème brûlée character on the palate but overburdened with sweetness and rusticity on the finish, which dries out.86