Jesús Barquín: The nose is, above all, toasty and tight, with notes of coal against a backdrop of warm ripe fruit. The palate is not very expressive: closed and not quite as vibrant as others. Also a bit heavy, structure-wise. 13

Alex Hunt: A sort of scorched-earth aroma that lifts otherwise quite baked fruit. This is rugged, savory stuff, invigorating in its way. The unprepossessing aroma leads to a pretty fresh, dynamic mouthful of wine. 15

Andrew Jefford: Dark black-red, though less saturated in color than some of its peers. Sweet, warm, with ruffled, truffley black fruits, hot stones and fragrant herbs. Deep, round, attractive; not super-concentrated; yet the wine combines drinkability with complexity. Schist, ripe black fruits (more orchard and less woodland than some), some meatiness, and a Havana-like refinement, too. More than satisfactory overall. 16.5