Jesús Barquín:Red, with ruby rim. Vegetal notes and a hint of rancio on the nose. The palate is similar but cleaner and more intense. Decidedly not among the best. 80

Andrew Jefford:Bottle 1: Deep-hued but clear and transparent. Slightly strange aromas, dusty, earthy, meaty. Bottle 2: Not hugely different. Barely attractive. On the palate, sweet but rather unrelieved, coarse, and rustic. 74

Richard Mayson:Deep color, just turning tawny on the rim; stewed and smelling slightly of Bovril on the nose. No finesse here. Similarly simple and onedimensional on the palate, with a rather rustic finish. Not faulty but no charm. 75