Stephen Brook: Deep red, and despite some evolution on the rim, this has impressive depth. Complex if slightly oxidized nose: meat, mushrooms, mint, and tar, and coffee aromas emerging with aeration. Quite rich, fleshy, plump, and tannic, and showing better than the nose, with considerable grip and spice, good acidity, and surprising tightness on the palate. Perky and piquant, with quite good length, if a rather stringy finish. 15