Stephen Brook: Deep red and, although slightly evolved, still quite firm on the rim. Rather mushroomy and tarry on the evolved nose, with some oxidation. Medium-bodied but concentrated, with less oxidation evident than on the nose; still quite tannic but balanced and remarkably fresh and spicy, silky and persistent, with a touch of coffee on the finish. Just starting to dry out, and it certainly declined in the glass but still had length and fruit. 17