Stephen Brook: Very deep red, only some slight evolution. Muted, black-cherry nose, which is surprisingly dumb given the wine’s age, and there is a light savory tone, though the aromas are not notably evolved. Fairly rich, fleshy, more open than 1991, concentrated but accessible, and though ample tannins coat the mouth, the wine has the weight to absorb them. This is more dramatic but less elegant than 1991. Good length, with a spicy finish. 17.5