Neal Martin: A little cloudy in color. There is a touch of volatility on the nose, with aromas of singed leather, mulberry fruit, sloe, and nougat, though it has retained surprisingly good definition and shows no sign of oxidation. The medium-bodied palate is reminiscent of an overmature Bordeaux, but there is lively acidity imparting freshness. Certainly drinkable and, indeed, pleasurable, thanks to its smooth texture, with decayed red fruits and leather toward the sweet finish, indicative of higher residual-sugar levels in this pre-commercial bottling. It would merit 20 points in terms of intrigue, but there is no disguising its frayed rusticity. 14.5