Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep with a little turn. Medicinal herb and small berry fruit on nose. Hit of juniper. Quite an unconventional wine, with herbal notes surpassing fruit, but with plenty of ripe sweet backdrop and quite a long finish. Drink from 2017. 17.5

Bruno Besa: Pale garnet to pink rim. Lively, intense, complex, and inviting nose, with bing cherries, toasted hazelnuts, and almost floral complexity. A refined palate, with clean small red fruit. A touch fragile for a great vintage like 2010 but extremely well made and enjoyable. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Clear, limpid black-red; one of the least deeply colored wines on the table, though that carries no positive or negative connotations in isolation. A super nose: majestically calm, classically orderly, but sensually beguiling scents of roasted red fruit, stones, cream, leaf litter, green coffee, and bay. On the palate, this is a smoother and lighter wine than many, with slightly more developed acidity and a ripe yet fresh style of fruit. The fruits are complex: plum, damson, sloe, blackcurrant, even a little redcurrant. Coffee complexities to finish, but they seem in some way to come from the roasted fruit and not toasted oak at all. Very carefully judged and calibrated tannins, too. Masterly work, I have to say. It doesn’t have the final titanic force of the biggest wines on the table, but it’s an outstanding classicist’s Brunello from an excellent vintage. A glorious wine. 18.5