Nicolas Belfrage: Deep with a ruby rim. Cherries and small black berries on the nose. Sturdy of structure, with tannins forceful and acid-pointed. The fruit is a bit restricted now but has the structure to allow development. Drink from 2018. 15.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink; orange rim. Mature, earthy, and complex nose, with prune juice, tobacco leaf, smoked meat, and cedarwood. Fullbodied, with big tannins, yet supported by the rich, layered black fruit. Not the most elegant of the lot, but generous and well made. 17.5

Andrew Jefford: Dense black-red. Quiet nose, but very good indeed: gravel, earth, incense, pressed leaves in a sample book. Deft on the palate. It doesn’t have maximal fruited force, but there is no fruit deficiency either, and it is very fresh, picked at the perfect moment, vivid and singing with dark urgency. The tannins are smooth but ample, and perfectly handled—nothing forbidding, in other words, so you can climb inside them and peer out at the landscape. Yet another outstanding wine from this almost dauntingly good vintage. 17