Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep. Smells as heavy as it looks. Vinous nose, not very expressive. Impressive but somewhat ponderous palate with chunky fruit and correct acid-tannin but short finish. One-glass wine, the right ingredients, but little teamwork. 13

Stephen Brook: Rich black-cherry nose, with a hint of licorice. Rich and quite dense, with good weight of fruit and imposing tannins. This is somber and a bit grippy, but initial charm is not a prerequisite of good Brunello. The concentration is formidable, but it doesn’t seem heavy-handed or overextracted. There’s sufficient acidity to give the wine ageability, and the finish is surprisingly suave and seductive. Very long. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep, resonant black-red. Initially attractive fruit qualities sing out of the glass with this wine, though after a little while they seem faintly grassy; there are fewer of the forest depths than for the best wines. But you can’t deny its articulacy and readiness to engage. This has quite a high-toned and dry style on the palate, though at the same time it is a wine of some authority. Not short on concentration or extracts, and these are backed by considerable depth of fruit. It is the style of that fruit that holds me back from a higher score, though—very driving through the upper register, but without much sense of bass support or overall roundness. Another wine that is hard to assess without the necessary food support. The length of its finish underlines the quality of the vines and the site. 15