Nicolas Belfrage: Deep with the beginnings of turn. Complex aromas of small dark-berry fruit, amarena, and spice. Rich, ripe fruit on the palate, with a little bitterness, oaky tannins, and really bright acidity that should keep it going for years, though drinking soon. From 2016. 18.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to pink rim. Open, a touch rustic on the nose, yet complex and inviting, with small black and red fruits and clean, herbal complexity. Clean, mature palate, yet a touch simple on the finish. 17

Andrew Jefford: Dark black-red. Gentle and slightly tanky on the nose, lacking both freshness and precision. Earthy, lively, rich, boisterous, and generous on the palate: worthy Brunello, supported by an excellent tannic structure. A slightly more freshly focused aroma would have won a high score, but this would still be a lovely bottle for a winter’s night. 14.5