Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep; definite turn. An old-fashioned nose of leather and spice. The palate, too, has traditional features of spiky acidity and firm tannins, but the latter are ripe and the former are in balance. The finish is long and complex. Good traditional style. Drink from 2017. 17.5

Bruno Besa: Ruby to pink. Intense, clean, mineral, and complex red-fruit nose, with smoke, cranberries, and cedar wood. Medium-bodied, with great balance of fruit, tannins, and acidity. Clean redfruit palate, with a defined, lively finish. Great effort; needs time to blossom. 18

Andrew Jefford: Limpid black-red; translucent. Slightly grumpy, reductive aromas. Simple stuff by comparison with the best of its peers, but a good red wine on anyone’s table. 12.5