Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, with definite turn on the rim. Clean, fruity, but with a quiet nose at the moment. Ripe and sweet, but with a bitter backdrop that may resolve into a fine bottle given a few years. Now very tight; has charm but is hiding it somewhat. 16

Bruno Besa: Garnet to tawny rim. Developed, spicy nose, with orange peel, small black fruits, and oriental spices. Astringent and rustic on the palate. Developed Brunello, already showing signs of age. 14

Andrew Jefford: Deep red but not opaque. Lots of amply ripened fruit, uncluttered by winery handling: warm, enticing, though without huge levels of aromatic precision. It’s a nose that draws you in, though. Earthy, rich, deep, grippy, almost fiery in its core: a big roar of hillside. Still not an aromatically precise or focused wine on the palate, either, but I love the root-spice flavor spectrum of this wine, and its tannic drumbeat: savory and antique, dark and resonant, quintessentially Italian. 16.5