Nicolas Belfrage: Deepish, quasi-opaque. Plummy fruit, warm, enticing. Tasty cherry fruit, with good backbone of acid/tannin. Up-front, but with something suggesting a good life. Drink from 2016 15.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny. Mature, spicy nose, with dried black fruits, orange peel, and smoked meat. Medium to full body; clean yet fairly short for a Brunello. 14.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. A warm, rounded summer pudding of a nose, with strawberries and cherries jostling with the blackberries and blackcurrants. There’s a creamy fullness behind, too. Excellent. Lively, vivid, and ripe on the palate, but perhaps with a little less fruit detail than the nose suggests. The concentration is impressive, though, and the fruit ripeness, and general emphasis on fruit, is hugely likable. A big, round, welcoming, all-encompassing Brunello, yet the finish is full of warm-stone complexities. Super wine; enormous exuberance, concentration, and force here. 17