Andrew Jefford: Mid-gold in color. Crushed lime, cracked coriander, a presentiment of kerosene: This is like a very restrained, ghostly, northern echo of Riesling from the Clare or from Frankland. It’s enticing and attractive and couldn’t be anything but Riesling. Vivid, full, and concentrated, with real weight on the palate—yet at the same time full of the poise that is the gift of Riesling’s wonderfully fruity acidity. The finish manages to combine those same elements of fermentative power and the intrinsic poise and complexity of the variety itself. There’s also lots of minerality coming through here. One of the more challenging wines in the tasting, thanks to its depth and fullness and impact—it’s a rousing Riesling. Very successful for me, though. 16.5

Andreas Larsson: There’s a hint of rubber and petrol on the nose, which is otherwise fine, with apricot, yellow plum, and citrus aromas; the palate feels a bit hollow, with a touch of kerosene, good freshness, and a medium length. 12

Stephan Reinhardt: White-golden color. Clear on the nose, though neither alluringly fruity nor very charming. Clear on the palate but a little bit rustic and drying out at the moment. Very firm, completely shut down, closed. We ordered a second bottle, though I think the wine does not care. Same nose, maybe a little bit more yeasty. Warmer (better!) temperature. Piquant and mineral; full-bodied and creamy-textured. I like this bottle more, indeed, maybe due to the warmer temperature. Refined raciness, very pure and mineral, straight-edged. Still not very charming but still not ready to drink, either. Store it. Should be better in three or four years and should still be alive and kicking in ten years. 16.5