Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve: Complete in every way: magnificent “rôti” fruit, with those gorgeous notes of apricot and orange that distinguish great vintages from this terroir. A class act, with a long, glorious future ahead! 18

Michael Schuster: Greeny gold; clear minerality behind the honey and lemon; fairly concentrated, vigorous wine, intensely sweet, but very mineral, too; long, rich, complex, and generous across the palate, with a marked botrytis spice and excellent length. All that, and an impression of silky, fresh elegance, too. Very fine. 2014–30. 17.5/18+