Stephen Brook: Rich, opulent, peachy nose; resplendent fruit. Fine attack, and the palate shows more raciness than the nose. There’s a creamy texture and a touch of heat, and there seems to be some botrytis, which adds some exotic fruit character as well as a slight heaviness. Nor is the wine fully dry, unless it’s the alcohol that gives the impression of slight sweetness. A hedonistic wine, somewhat overblown and lacking in acidity and finesse. 16.5

Simon Larkin: Deep in hue, some viscosity. Aromas of slightly spicy, almost Alsatian Pinot Gris characters. Rich, intense, mouth-coating in style; an oily quality, with notably creamy, broad, honeyed citrus. Some alcoholic warmth on finish, like a hot-vintage Condrieu; serious proportion, though something of an overtly heady expression, which lacks some freshness. 12.5

Andreas Larsson: Very intense and aromatic nose, pure, with tropical-fruit notes. The palate is really opulent, a bit heady at present; it shows good length and a creamy texture but appears a bit marked by the alcohol right now. Should probably develop well. 15