Alison Buchanan: Back here to the land of butter. Hugely rich and caramelized on the nose. Cream, grilled bananas, and toffee come to the fore. While the nose begs the question whether to use it as a sauce for ice cream, the palate is much more balanced, with obvious ripeness and toasted character married to acidity. 16

Stephen Brook: Rich and rather thick, peachy, syrupy nose. Broad, slightly sweet, unusually blowsy for Carneros, with a dash of added acidity. This is all over the place and seems inexpertly cobbled together. Fairly short and blunt. 11

Oz Clarke: Full green-gold. A big fat nose. Pretty fat palate-wise, too. Yet there is some quality still in these old-timer styles. It’s fair, it’s full, it’s smoky, but it’s well enough balanced, though I still find the effort put into extraction and oak not matched by the pleasure on the palate. 14