Nicolas Belfrage: Some oranging on edge. Correct if as yet undeveloped nose. Traditional-style sour cherry on palate, firm and mouthwatering, with very attractive sweet/sour fruit on long finish with tannins in place. Classic. 17

Stephen Brook: Stylish cherry nose, with considerable purity of fruit and a discreet smokiness. Ripe and sleek, with a silky texture and enough lift to prevent the wine from being cloying. Indeed, it’s quite assertive, though the tannins aren’t extracted or tough. I don’t find much persistence of flavor, and the attack is more impressive than the finish. This is hard to assess, since the structure is so understated, but probably not for the long haul. 15

Andrew Jefford: Light garnet. Disappointingly weak aromas, lacking focus and core. Light and acidulous, surely from high-yielding vines. It has the impact of the place but little beyond that to recommend it. 11