Jesús Barquín: Fresh. Luis Gutiérrez thinks this is Grenache-based. In any case, this is very fresh and youthful, with excellent structure and an incredible lightness of body because it is structured with such a perfectly harmonious balance of tannin, acidity, and alcohol. Long and very enjoyable. 18.5

Simon Field: Evolved tawny color with a gentle rim; nose of tobacco and incense; palate is serious and dense and has serious “meaty” subtext. Good balance, lapidiary confidence on finish, fireside elegance. Muy bien! 18

Jancis Robinson: Mid-ruby, savory. Very tight and firm. A very different build from most. “Mineral” skein and backbone to this. Smooth tannins, Very accomplished and sophisticated. Rather aloof but admirable. Lots of life there. More acidity than most but with sufficient fruit, too. Drink 2000–25 18.5