Jesús Barquín: Magnificent, very youthful, with even fruit notes, overall harmony. Firm tannins give it structure. Has a long life ahead of it. 19

Simon Field: Gentle color, amber rim. Lovely fulsome strawberry nose, hints of peat and woodsmoke. Palate has fine vestigial sweetness; Proustian intimations of the value of nostalgia. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Lively ruby. Reserved and fresh—rather sophisticated. Vibrant and very fresh. This has only just been opened, and I have a feeling that it might bloom in an hour or so… Strawberry juice, very Rioja. Drink 1975–2000. 17