Jesús Barquín: The very expressive nose offers jammy red berries, signs of a ripe vintage, a note of aniseed. The palate is well structured and very clean, with refined tannin, good acidity, and length. The nose’s warmth and the modern air detract a little, but the palate is beautifully focused, with great quality. 18.5

Simon Field: Touch of VA, nose quite foursquare and rich at the same time. Palate marries wild strawberries, balsamic notes, and hints of forest floor. Sauvage yet strangely, pleasingly tame after all these years. 17

Jancis Robinson: Dark crimson. Old and rather oxidized—though it seemed to clean itself up. Sweet start. Easy and round, with notes of coffee but not the freshest fruit. Quite luscious fruit. Lots of energy and transparency. Drink 1990–2020. 17.5