Jesús Barquín: This is a great wine, plethoric: subtle smoky notes, crème brûlée. It has been resting comfortably on that plateau for a couple of decades, but its acidity guarantees a bright future still. We did not have enough tasting time for it to develop fully, and it was possibly not the best bottle we have sampled, but it was growing steadily. Surely it was superb on the following day. 19

Simon Field: Deep Spanish gold; nose of acacia honey, beautiful spice. In the mouth, the amazing purity of fruit dominates. Firm acidity, balanced fruit, and long beeswax finish. Pure and not simple. 17.5

Jancis Robinson: Dark coppery, with an orange hint. Low acid at first, and then it rushes in. A bit dull and astringent. Sour, losing fruit. Drink 1980–2000. 16