Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Soft pastry-and-toffee nose, showing some evolution. Confectionary and red fruit. Low on fruit, with notes of oxidation. Wide and smooth, mature palate. Not for cellaring. 14

Simon Field: Nose of burned honeycomb and Dickensian parlors; palate maintains these leitmotifs with lapidary certainty; a touch sulfurous and therefore short on definition despite an intrinsic RD-esque quality. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Characterful but, to be super-critical, a touch rustic and lacking focus. 15.5