Essi Avellan: Deep, clear golden color. Pungent and austere nose of apple, wax, and old-wood spiciness. Sharp and singular palate, with bright fruit on the finish. Straightforward and powerful but lacks some finesse and charm at this stage. 15

Michael Edwards: More gold lights; freshness and maturity of scents in vin fin balance; a classy confirmation of the nose on the palate: harmonious. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Very dry. Too dry. I love true brut dryness, but there has to be harmony, and here we have a puckering quality alien to Champagne as we have come to accept it. 14