Nicolas Belfrage: Medium, correct color. Up-front nose of slight (positive) volatility carrying floral and slightly unripe plum aromas. Nicely rounded, integrated wine of several parts. Ripe and non-excessive tannins, sweet Porty finish, mouthwatering acidity: it’s all there, with good intensity and balance and length. Very classy Nebbiolo. Floral notes kick in on finish. Drink from 2014 for 20 years. Retaste: Not quite the all-roundness of [Sobrero Barolo Ciabot Tanasio] but still an excellent Barolo - 17

Stephen Brook: Fairly deep red; some brick tones. Lean, raisiny nose, a touch of vanilla; has precision and lift, and the fruit isn’t squashed by that raisiny tone. Medium-bodied, a bit lean and stringy, with assertive acidity and rather dry tannins. This seems a bit pinched and mean, lacking generosity of fruit and concentration. But it’s the quality of the tannins and the astringency that mark this down for me - 12

Jancis Robinson: Blackish rust. Sweet and tarry nose. A little low-key. Rather aggressive acidity. I’m not sure this will ever be really harmonious. A bit rustic. Drink 2015–20 - 15