Nicolas Belfrage: Classic mid-depth color with garnet rim. Quiet but subtly expressive nose of spice and dried fruit. On the palate, slightly low in acidity, but the more drinkable for that. Drink now for 8+ years. 15

Andrew Jefford: Deep red-black to scarlet at the rim. Warm, but a little dry and semolina-like aromatically, without many fresh fruit notes or much allusive power. Smooth, long, supple, and full; actually a much better wine on the palate than the aromatic spectrum suggested it would be. This is resonant and long, with wonderfully creamy tannins (so well handled!) and a lovely glowing core of fruit; it all subsides into a very polished, licorice-rich finish. I’m slightly at a loss as to how to score the wine, because the palate is pushing 18.5, yet aromatically is it just too restrained and monophonic, for the time being at least. (It may be a question of time.) Regard the score as provisional, and anticipate still better things to come. 17

Franco Ziliani: Intense ruby color, rich and consistent in the glass. Bouquet is rich, ripe, with aromatic herb notes. Some wild aspects, peppery and extractive notes not particularly elegant, and some milky notes. Rich and warm on the palate, with solid structure but tannins that are slightly bitter and aggressive on the finish. For me this lacks balance and harmony. Will it improve? I’m not sure... 15.5