Nicolas Belfrage: Medium depth, typical. Some floral hints on nose, with red berry fruit. Clean and very pure, with everything in place; acidity and tannins at the right levels—just a touch of the famous sweet finish. Good length. Has all the parts, so why am I underwhelmed? 16

Bruno Besa: Deep ruby, garnet rim to brick rim. Open nose, a touch dominated by the oak yet mature and refined with complex, spicy character. Full body, with super-rich, sweet fruit, plentiful and refined tannins, and a long mature finish. A muscular Barolo that needs time to come together- 17.5:

Jancis Robinson: Vibrant crimson; not a typical Barolo color. Some oak on the nose. Attractive sweet fruit on the palate, and then drying tannins on the end. Unbalanced: sweet then dry. Rather unusually full-bodied. Drink 2016–26- 14 :