Tim Atkin: Mid-straw. Salty, nutty, almost Manzanilla Sherry-like notes on the nose. Highly unusual. Nutty, savory, complex, and quite weighty on the palate, with some volatility and that same Sherry-like touch. Sappy and long. A weird wine, but the saltiness and nuttiness work well together. Sui generis 17

Nicolas Belfrage: 1 = color of water and 9 = deep gold: Col 3. Rich and perfumed, uppish alcohol and very concentrated; this wine could knock you flat if you’re not careful. Dry, classy, and deceptively strong, a oneglass wine (or two at most) 16

Alex Hunt: Aging in a very agreeable, smokynutty, Burgundian direction, with an extra layer of crème pâtissière richness. There’s a lot of taut acidity—this still has some time to go—and there really is excellent grip and definition on the palate. The 14.5% ABV is very well hidden. Terrific winemaking here 17.5