Stephen Brook: Spicy, vigorous, pear nose, with real lift and finesse. Tight attack, concentrated and vigorous, with ample but not excessive acidity to balance the silky texture. But it is marred by rather high alcohol, which is a shame, given the admirable fruit expression. A good food wine, for all that, and a sole in a cream sauce would probably absorb the alcohol. Although scored 17.5 based on the initial impression, this ends up with 16.5 .

Alison Buchanan: Yellow-gold with green lights, this has a waxy, leesy nose, some stone- and orchard- fruit character, and a welldelineated minerality. The palate offers a similar profile, which lends itself well to slightly spiced cuisine, as well as cutting through richer, dairy-dominated, central European dishes. Pleasant enough, this is very mineral but nonetheless lacks the electric focus that Austria and Grüner Veltliner can deliver 14

Anthony Rose: Pale yellow-green in color. There’s an attractive freshness on the nose of this dry white, with underlying appley tones and a hint of pepperiness; fresh spritz on the palate, followed by a lightly peppery and spicy full-bodied fruit, the nice ripeness combining with fresh, cleansing acidity and a bone-dry, almost austere, finish. Overall, a very nicely balanced dry white 17