Bruno Besa: Garnet to tawny rim. Developed, decadent nose, with rosewater and prune juice. Medium body, with mature yet restrained and fairly complex palate. Classic Barolo, if a touch developed for a 2011. 87

Andrew Jefford: Clear and glowing garnet. Mellow and autumnally fruited, with just a little bit of natural rotty deviance among all the perfect fruits—hurrah! That’s what we like. It’s real. A very complete, autumnal, and nature-reflecting aromatic profile, in other words, and very distant from the tedious impeccable sweet ripeness of cloudless vineyards. Very secondary, very complex, very challenging here—the perfect flavor and textural echo of those disturbingly good aromas. This is an extraordinarily good and interesting wine, if not the most classically perfect wine on the board. Ripe acidity, ripe tannin, but it’s above all the complexity of the fruit flavors and all the secondary resonances they trigger that make this such a compelling wine. 92