Nicolas Belfrage: A very traditional style, but highly successful as such. Evolved of color and style, nose showing some stewed fruit and tar, palate with good acids and savory flavors, nice integration and follow-through, with a sweet finish and good length. Drinking now but will last well. A treat for followers of the old-fashioned. 17

Simon Larkin: Deeper in the glass than many. The nose here offers dark fruit, with pleasing ripeness, almost morello cherry in character. The palate is substantial, with glorious volume of fruit and very finely grained but very assertive tannins. This is ripe but cool, with a vibrant accent throughout. Discreet, aromatic, herbal/floral characters come through well, as does that sweet/sour contrast that Nebbiolo can create. Very impressive. This is a standout Barbaresco in a bolder style but with such fine layers of fruit and terrific length. 18.5

Franco Ziliani: Dark, concentrated ruby color. The nose is overripe, with plums, cherries, vanilla notes—no elegance. Simple, nice fruit; good tannic structure; just a little rustic, with dry, astringent tannins. U Nicolas Belfrage: alanced and unharmonious. 12.5