Bruno Besa | Garnet to tawny rim. Clean and mineral nose with aromatic woods, hazelnuts, smoked meat, and mature black fruits. Medium to full body, with great tannic structure and mature yet lively fruit. Fairly long and possibly needing a few more years in the bottle. | 89

Stephen Brook | Reticent cherry nose. Rich, juicy, and suave, with good up-front fruit and fine, though not excessive, concentration. There’s an iron-like character behind the fruit, but it’s not severe. I don’t detect much nuance, but it’s solid without being chunky and should gain complexity with more age. The abundance and persistence of fruit win me over. | 90

Andrew Jefford | Limpid but less pale-hued than some. Fragrant, with some sweet-fruited grace and enticing vellum and wild-mushroom complexity. Very refined and well aged, but no sense of jostling unripeness beneath. I suspect we will see more amply fleshed wines than this in the tasting, but as the nose suggests, this is a splendidly refined and elegant wine with admirable complexity. It is calm, dry, and sober in style, but full of nuance. | 93