Nicolas Belfrage: Quasi-opaque. Waxy, fried fruity aromas. Lots of rich, ripe fruit on the palate, cherry and plum. Sweet and concentrated in the mouth, the tannins firm and ripe and the acidity up to the job. Attractive modern style. Drink from 2016. 16.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny. Open, intense, smallblack- fruit nose, with fresh herbs, rosewater, fresh almonds, and hints of cedarwood. Balanced palate, with mature yet lively small black and red fruit; complex, with a long, mineral finish. Another great Barolo, classic and fragrant. 18.5

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red. Lots of fruit, but summoned up in rather simple style: livid and medicinal. On the palate, too, this is a very obvious kind of Barolo, which pushes the phenolic buttons but does so with an almost confectionary simplicity of fruit. I’m afraid I wouldn’t relish this, though the tannins would still keep me drinking. 11.5