SF | Dull green-yellow, Van Gogh straw, and a watery rim. Aromatics are equally amorphous, lacking the definition of yeast-driven austerity , and any sense of fruit -driven generosity, this despite the slightly higher notch of alcohol. The palate redeems with an unexpected burst of spritz, spearmint and lime suddenly entering the fray, the shadowy vistas now illuminated and initial impressions almost reversed by the fresh, pear, nougat finish and the firm line of acidity driving the structure towards the home key. 91
AJ | Pale and bright; light yellow-gold. The most sheer and severe of the unfortified cohort aromatically: taut apple fruits, a jet of yeast, a chord of flor. With air it almost doubles down on its severity. On the palate, it is actually the most expansive (to my surprise) of the unfortified wines, and much more attractive: tangy, bright, ample green olive and olive-oil bitter sinew, but some fruit, too, and that almost orange; lovely cleansing yeasty freshness on the finish. An exciting wine -- but please give it plenty of air. The nose went through a very gruff phase before finally opening.Drink Dates: 2024 - 2025. 91
DW | Creamy, slightly buttery initially, there is richness here and softness before a reductive smokiness kicks in, and a distant slightly perfumed, Mediterranean floral note amid apple and toast. Slightly short in the finish and just a little flat and ponderous.Drink Dates: 2024 - 2028. 89