Essi Avellan: Pale peachy. Really stylish, toast-lined Pinot nose, with pastry and soft spiciness. Strong, fleshy, and structured palate, with subdued power underneath the velvety body. It has both character and appeal. Great gastronomic style with aging capacity; young still. 18

Andrew Jefford: Pale orange-red; steady mousse. Complex, developed, softly nutty, but planty too; sappy and fresh. Complex, subtle, and very attractive. Deep, searching, even vaulting fruit, with lots of vinous structure and complexity, and some fine finishing perfumes. Very secondary and developed: real wine, and a good food choice. Plenty of sense of place behind, in the sappy, vinous, faintly earthy core. Not a rosé for Valentine’s Day, but gastronomically satisfying. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Pale salmon color. High, somewhat hard acidity. Lacks elegance. 15