Alison Buchanan: A very inviting olive-tinged mahogany. A slightly briney astringency marks the nose, allied to Eccles-cake sweetness. Alongside opulence, there is a slightly bitter minerality that jars but does not quite give enough direction. Dry on the finish, too. I could not quite get to grips with this wine in context: I was, or it was, a bit out of synch. 15.5

Jesús Barquín: Medium chestnut. Old and complex, with up-front oxidative notes, restrained sweetness, and some alcoholic warmth. Aromas of nut skin on the finish, which is fairly clean and long. 16

Julian Jeffs: Rather light color, but good nose and real PX flavor, with great length. 17