Simon Field: Deep tawny color, classic green rim. High-toned, uncompromising on the nose. Palate sweeter than some, VA quite prevalent. Plenty of concentration and tangy flavors: I’m sure this wine is as old as me, but at least one of us is still a little arch and slightly immature. 16.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-mahogany. Pungent, high-toned aromas, slightly singed with some dried-fruit complexity. Big, powerful flavor, dried-fruit compote with racy acidity and powerful astringency on the finish. Makes up in power and pungency what it lacks in finesse. 18

Margaret Rand: Nose of preserved lemons, cheese, and Amontillado. Palate terrific: pungent, smoky, punchy, linear, tensile, medium-sweet but sour, splendidly complex, assertive, and concentrated. Unmissable. Huge finish. 19