Tim Atkin: Mature, deep garnet with a tawny rim. Lovely, complex, mature nose, sweet Asian spices, red fruits, well-integrated oak and a leafy, leathery undertone. Nice balance, with refreshing acidity and good structure. Drinking well now, but capable of further bottle age. Traditional. 17

Jesús Barquín: Medium ruby with browning rim. The nose is somewhat dominated by oak, though the wine is serious. The palate is lively and well balanced, though slightly drying tannin rules the finish. It does, however, open up and become more expressive with time in the glass. Modern. 15.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: Muddy brown, evolved nose. Full flavor, rich and sweet, fully satisfying, with a long leathery finish. Delicious. A point. Old-style. 16.5