Tim Atkin: Light, developed, pale brick-red in color. A high proportion of Garnacha? High-toned aromas, wild strawberry and sweet spices. Elegant, soft, mature, with lovely Pinot-like sweetness and complexity. Not the longest wine in the world, but very well balanced, with delicious harmony between fruit acid and silky tannins. A really attractive old wine. Traditional. 17.5

Jesús Barquín: Medium ruby. A wine of finesse, with a lighter robe than most others here. Intense on the nose, with a dried-flower bouquet, elegant leather notes, and even a hint of red fruit still in the background. Within its high overall quality level, the palate does disappoint a little, as the tannins have not fully integrated yet and there is a note of old oak in the background. Traditional. 17

Marcel Orford-Williams: Lovely nose, sweet and spicy, like old Burgundy. Quite pale in color. Tight and fine, but it has lost some of its sweetness and is drying up a little on the finish. Rather good nevertheless. Old-style. 14