Tim Atkin: Mature garnet/brick red. Leafy, autumnal slightly feral. A little dry and four-square, high tannins, chewy, high acid, drying out on the palate. Over-the-top, with too much oak for its own good. Savory and slightly dry. Touch of VA. Intermediate. 8

Jesús Barquín: Medium to deep ruby-cherry, with bright rim. Not very expressive but serious, well-focused, pleasant fruit-oak balance, with creamy and menthol notes, long, a good and elegant wine of discretion. Intermediate. 16

Marcel Orford-Williams: Dark and brooding. Spicy. Full. Lovely middle palate. Finish is wonderful. More or less à point but will keep well. New-style? 18