Alison Buchanan: Attractive yellow gold, limpid and shimmering. Here we have more obvious redcurrant, gooseberried character coming through with flashes of steel. The nose has great energy and direction that initially is not borne out on the palate, which slushes about a bit before gaining intensity, steely minerality and weight. Here too there is a bitter aspect to the mineral layer that in this case complements ripe, honeyed fruit. 14.5

Alex Hunt: Zippy gooseberry and chalk nose. Though relatively straightforward in flavor, there is real focus here, and the fruit drives very positively towards the finish. Compact and nicely balanced. 15

Andrew Jefford: Pale green–gold. Very sweet and pristine. Predominantly vegetal in character, but with a new-minted, spring–like quality that is appealing. Slightly catty after a little while in the glass. Piercing, darting, intense, with lots of green sappiness and ivy–leaf finesse. Well–handled and well–judged; absolutely classic. Bring on the oysters…14.5