Alison Buchanan: Honeyed mushroom character on the nose – rather decadent, really. Full and ripe cassis and redcurrant fruit is complemented by a lively acidity and spice – very attractive balance. 16.5

Alex Hunt: Strong nose of blackcurrant pastilles. The palate is more like blackcurrant leaves. An acquired taste, certainly, but actually not badly balanced, and still quite lively. Hollow finish lets it down. 13

Andrew Jefford: Mid gold. Does oak keep these older wines on track? This has had some oak handling, and the wood provides a pole of enduring appeal that Sauvignon on its own cannot be expected to deliver. It also sweetens the whole business up and stops the Sauvignon getting too dry and reedy. Intense and penetrating here, but this is nonetheless recognizably Sancerre in contrast to some of its peers. Well–made and balanced, reminding me that 1997 was a warm vintage in some parts of the Loire. Much better than I expected, though still a curiosity rather than a recommendation. 12