Mannie Berk | The oldest Verdelho still available from D’Oliveira, from the year of the firm’s official foundation. This bottle is from the family’s private collection, having been bottled in the 1960s or 1970s.

Roy Hersh I’ve been fortunate to have tasted this Verdelho a half dozen times when visiting the island, as it’s the oldest Madeira I’ve tasted there, with some still remaining in cask. But this is a 40–50-year-old bottling, and one I’ve never tried before. The second darkest wine at our event, fullon coffee color, with a greenish edge and specks of floating sediment. Scintillating smoky scents exploded from the glass, along with notes of white peach, golden raisins, VA, figs, and marzipan. A riveting profile! The palate was no slouch either, viscous and concentrated, with precision and nerve from its electric acidity. Full-throttle intensity, framed by flavors of crème brûlée, dates, roasted espresso, Satsuma, and a sweet-hazelnut finish that carried on for minutes. In any other tasting this would be an absolutely extraordinary Madeira, its only fault was following the mindblowing 1862 Lomelino. | 19