Essi Avellan: Deep orange-hued salmon color. A little sulfur in the nose in gunpowdery form but also a light whiffof rotten egg. Fresh and lively palate, with good energy. Fine mousse and good succulent length. The sulfur should mellow over time; lovely underneath. 18

Simon Field: Rosehip and strawberry aromas, a little loose-knit; the palate is not completely clean, with a slightly leafy character undermining potential. The second bottle is better, or at least different, with fewer obvious faults but still a paucity of immediate appeal. 13

Tom Stevenson: First bottle nice enough but not special; lacking definition and focus. 5